All Quiet on the Western Front

Bleak.

That's how I would explain the mood at work today. There was no Spanish music blaring out of the radio. Everyone seemed have their minds elsewhere, the monologue in their minds keeping them occupied.

It took a while for some people to really feel the magnitude of the ruptured economy. For the cafe, there was a whirlwind of holidays and special events that distracted us. With every large reservation and restaurant buyout, a constant hope lingered that money would keep coming in to keep us afloat.

But after a while, after all the dust has settled and the calender starts to look empty, reality creeps its way into the restaurant. It starts with the weekday lunches as less and less people come in. Local business around us in West Berkeley have layoffs, bringing in less traffic.

How does a small business survive during these times?

Well, items on the menu need to be cut, judging by the amount of labor and by popularity. The dishes that take more time to prepare or are low sellers would be on the chopping block. After that the staff is cut, which is perhaps the most painful part. Good, hardworking servers have to be let go and the kitchen staff is also reduced. Instead of two cooks on the line and a dishwasher, there are only two guys in the kitchen.

Then there is pastry. Yes, my hours have been reduced as well. However, the morning pastries are still selling very well, much better than this time last year. But I have to cut out some cakes and some of the cookies.

I do miss those time when the cafe would be packed and there would be a short wait outside the door. The kitchen would be rocking and rolling, making omlettes, French toast, and paninis. Servers would skillfully weave their way around the restaurant with plates and trays with drinks... Hopefully, we will make it through.

Valentine's Day

Sigh. Valentine's Day.

The only time of year that the cafe is open for dinner. Being right by the chocolate factory gave us a great excuse to host dinner since chocolate pairs so well with Valentine's Day.

I began my day, a bit bleary eyed, not quite awakened by my morning cup of coffee. But I was not the only one who felt that way. Edwin, the dishwasher, was already there. While one of the cooks, the barista, and I arrived at the same time at 8 am.

Because Valentine's Day landed on a Saturday this year, my boss decided to take advantage of the weekend and open both Friday and Saturday.With a 10-15 hour work day om Friday, we were preparing for another long day, except this one would be much busier.

Pastries and cookies were prepared and baked off for our brunch service. And after thinking through what the course of the day and the evening would be like, I decided to bake and cook off a few more items for our Valentine's Day menu: a few more servings of pain au chocolat bread pudding, two more quarts of coconut anglaise, and an extra chocolate decadence.

And brunch was busy, as our reservation sheet was packed with names. I took a short break for lunch and was expecting to get a chance to take another break before dinner service. But, for some reason, like with most big nights, time just slipped away. Before I knew it, brunch was over and I had to prepare some pastries for the next day, while setting myself up to plate desserts.

I had only three items on the dessert menu: the bread pudding came with stout anglaise, chocolate sauce, and cherry syrup; the decadence had brûléed banana slices, coconut anglaise with passionfruit coulis; and the chocolate pot de creme with cinnamom palmiers.All chocolate themed of course.

My evening consisted of the sounds of the live band, the radio in the kitchen, and my oven. And since we had no ticketing machine in the pastry kitchen, I relied on hand-written post it notes. Servers and bussers were running in and out of the kitchen, picking up plates and grabbing clean silverware. Near the end of the evening, I saw poor Edwin leaning against a reach in refrigerator, taking a breather.

But at the end of the night was family meal, a chance for us to grab some food, to taste the Cowgirl Creamery cheese plate or the filet mignon: A chance to recooperate after a very long day. But it was 11pm when I had finished wrapping up my products and cleaning my station. And I just wanted to go home and see my husband, who had been so thoughtful to buy me flowers from my favorite floral shop, The Meadow. So, I boxed up some portions and headed out, leaving the control chaos behind, and into the quiet night.

Change

It's been a bit rugged lately. The effects of the changing economy are apparent during lunch; they are just not as busy as they used to be. This time last year, there were often times where people had to wait outside for a table. Not so much now.

Along with a reach-in refrigerator and a freezer breaking down, we have been forced to be a lot more efficient with our space. But it is frustrating at times, when you find frozen shrimp sharing space with some frozen cookie dough because there is just nowhere else to put it.

As a result, I've taken two of my cakes off the menu: the chocolate stout cake and the midnight cake (chocolate cake with ganache and vanilla buttercream.) Sigh. There just is no space. But, on a good note, there have been requests for the chocolate-cardamom pot de cremes. So they are back accompanied by two petite pistachio cookies.

I've shifted my focus more on the pastry case: the breakfast pastries and cookies. This upcoming week will be a series of experiments of different cookie doughs, maybe a new brownie. Today I baked off some almond apricot chocolate cookies. (I may add oats to it. I taste too much like the regular chocolate chip cookie.) Tomorrow is nibby shortbread. I am letting it sit and chill overnight to let the nibs infuse the dough, a tip I picked up from Alice Medrich's Bittersweet.

I am also brainstorming what I can egg white. Because I am going to be making the pot de cremes again, I will be using more yolks. Perhaps a hazelnut chocolate meringue? I also have a ton of nuts that I have to figure out what to do with. Without our old chill chests, their shelf life is shortened. (I have a five pound bag of pistachios.)

The holidays are in sight as well; I keep in mind cut-out cookies, rugelachs, and flavors of peppermint.

When the Freezer Stops Freezing...

You have in mind your production schedule for the day. It is the afternoon and you have already baked off the morning pastries and cookies. You've iced the brownies and piped ganache on the chocolate cupcakes. Two quiches have been baked off for the lunch specials. You've even had time to test out a new pumpkin muffin recipe. The chocolate stout cake has cooled and you are ready to put them in the freezer to be used at a later date.

But the freezer smells funny. You put your hand in and it feels, strangely, warmer. You start poking at different product, expecting your finger to hit a wall of frozen items. But everything you touch give way to the pressure you apply. There is condensation on the inside wall of the freezer.

Great.

Problems happen all the time. I've always found that the problems that arise in the kitchen forces one to be creative. Much of the time, I have to stop what I am doing and find a solution of some sort. Because there's really no other choice. How perfect it would if everything came out the way you wanted. If all ovens behaved the same, if freezers didn't break down, if the temperature and humidity were just perfect, etc.

So what do I usually have in there? Unbaked product such as scones and cookie dough, cakes waiting to be iced, nuts to keep from going rancid, fruit purees, pate brisee wrapped in plastic wrap, puff pastry, and ice cream samples.

The rest of my production was put on pause for the rest of the day. I scrambled to find freezer items temporary homes in other freezers and fridges. And I made it work.

You just have to.

The Second Attempt

Defeated.
That is how I felt when I left work today. I attempted to make my chocolate cherry ice cream again today since the previous batch was possibly contaminated by broken glass. I had just finished spinning it and had scooped them into the sundae glasses. There were about nine glasses on the half sheet pan. As I loaded them into the freezer, I missed the shelf and the glasses toppled onto the floor in a big old chocolate mess.

Gah! I felt so frustrated as all that hard work lay on the floor. It sounds silly, but I wanted to cry. You start to feel like: "Why did I bother to make it if this was going to happen?" I was tired and just wanted my day to end. I also was not looking forward to the clean up.

I will not be making ice cream at work for a while.

Too bad because it was really yummy ice cream.

Hot Hot Heat

Summer is here...even before the official date. People are out and about in flip-flops with some sort of cold beverage in hand. Fans and air conditioner are working full blast.

And it gets even hotter in the kitchen. I have spent enough summers in restaurant kitchens to dread the hot weather. It is nice if you are sitting outside for an evening meal. But, you will have your endurance and tolerance tested in the kitchen with the temperature rising outside. I am fortunate to be in the pastry kitchen, but the hot line has the stove, the grill and the oven, all sources that adds to the heat.

Twice this year, we have had one of the freezers break on a hot day. The first time around was the pastry freezer. Fortunately, my boss was at work earlier than me that day and discovered it in time to save my precious product.

I think the worst, though, was a few years ago when I was at the Slanted Door. Sure, the dining area was pleasantly air conditioned, but, man, was it hot the second you stepped into the kitchen. The plating station was worse with the fryer behind you. Occasionally, you would find someone taking their time in the walk-in, taking advantage of the few moments of cool air.

There is nothing like feeling like constantly being inside a hot cloud, beads of sweat on your brow, your shirt sticking to your back, trying to pin out pie dough.

I am hoping that this is a just a heat wave, but with global warming, that may not be so.